Lip balms FAQs
To get a better understanding of what to look for in a lip balm and how best to use them, we ran our questions past Dr Jason Thomson, head of medical at Skin + Me.
How to choose the best lip balm for chapped lips
Dr Thompson recommends a combination of hydrating, soothing, and protective ingredients. “Occlusives like beeswax, petrolatum or shea butter are highly effective at sealing in moisture and preventing dehydration,” he explains. “Humectants, such as glycerin, help attract moisture to the lips, keeping them hydrated and plump.”
Thomson adds: “Soothing agents like chamomile extract and panthenol help calm irritation and provide relief to sensitive or inflamed lips. It is important to select lip balms with sun protection – products with SPF 30 or higher – to guard against UV damage, which can exacerbate chapping and dryness. Additionally, opt for fragrance-free and hypoallergenic formulations to minimise the risk of irritation and allergic reactions, ensuring the balm is gentle on sensitive skin.”
Should lip balms contain SPF?
“Yes, lip balms should definitely contain SPF, particularly if you spend time outdoors,” he explains. “Lips are vulnerable to UV damage, which can lead to sunburn, premature ageing, and increased skin cancer risk. Choose lip balms with broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, containing UV filters like titanium oxide or zinc oxide. Reapply every two hours when outdoors.”
Read more: Best face moisturisers for every skin type
When should you wear lip balm?
According to Dr Thomson, lip balm should be applied regularly throughout the day, to maintain lip health and moisture. “If you’re using lip balm for dry, chapped lips, apply it whenever your lips feel dry, which is typically at least four times a day,” he says. “In the summer, when you’re spending time outside, UV protection becomes essential. Apply lip balm with SPF before going outdoors and reapply frequently, at least every two hours, to maintain effective sun protection.”
He adds that if you are using retinoids like tretinoin as part of your skincare regimen, it’s important to “apply lip balm to buffer the lip area, as tretinoin can cause dryness, even if not applied directly to the lips”.
What causes the skin on your lips to become dry and unhealthy?
Thompson cites environmental conditions (such as wind and low humidity), dehydration, some ingredients in lip products or certain foods, lip-picking or biting and retinoids among the possible reasons for dry or unhealthy lips. “Lip licking is a common habit that exacerbates dryness because saliva contains digestive enzymes that can irritate the delicate skin of the lips, and its evaporation further removes moisture,” he says.
Read more: Best retinol creams and serums, reviewed
What are the active ingredients to look for in lip balms?
“During the colder months, you’ll want to look for soothing and hydrating ingredients in your lip balm,” says Thomson. “A typical balm formulation contains a high proportion of oils, waxes and butters. Ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil, beeswax, and shea butter work as effective occlusives and emollients to add and lock in moisture.”
He adds that additional ingredients like panthenol are excellent for soothing inflamed and chapped lips, while ceramides, which are skin-identical lipids, help nourish and strengthen the skin barrier. Plus, antioxidants like vitamin C and vitamin E provide an extra layer of protection against environmental stressors such as UV rays and pollution, and they have anti-aging properties.
“It’s crucial to protect your lips from UV rays, as they are exposed to significant UV radiation throughout your life, particularly the bottom lip,” he says. “Skin cancers on the lips tend to be more aggressive than those on other areas. Therefore, for a lip balm used during the day, especially in the summer months, ensure it includes broad-spectrum sun protection.”
If you suffer with dry, chapped lips, Dr Thomson also recommends avoiding certain ingredients in lips balms. “Fragrance, flavouring agents, camphor and menthol can all be irritating and are best avoided,” he explains.
The verdict: Lip balms
Hello Sunday’s lip balm has taken our top spot thanks to its supremely hydrating, long-lasting formula, SPF 50 and subtle sheen. On a budget, Bondi Sands is great – it’s lightweight, moisturising, and contains SPF (but the sweet taste and scent won’t be for everyone). When SPF isn’t required, we’d turn to Eucerin, Nuxe and E45 for intensive hydration. Meanwhile, with a nice range of high-shine shades, Ultra Violette’s sheen screen is a do-it-all formula that could even replace your everyday lip gloss.
Want more high-shine, pigmented formulas? Check out our edit of the best lip glosses
